The Dirty War and El Espacio Memoria y Derecho Humano

The Argentinian Dirty War, spanning from 1976 to 1983, was a period of state terrorism under a military dictatorship. The regime targeted left-wing political opponents, resulting in the forced disappearance of up to 30,000 individuals. These "disappeared" persons included students, trade unionists, journalists, and anyone perceived as a threat to the leadership.

The Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo, a group of women whose (adult) children were arrested and then disappeared without a trace, brought international attention to these human rights violations through their persistent protests. Their constant vigilance ensured audiences with foreign journalists, human rights committees and even the Pope.

We recently spent a very hot afternoon at the Espacio Memoria y Derechos Humanos (Memory and Human Rights Space). This giant campus includes the ESMA- the Navy School that became one of the many prison/torture sights during this time. An estimated 5,000 people lost their lives in this space alone, and more than 30 children were born here; the children were adopted out to military leaders and their mothers were then killed.

Like many places in South America, Buenos Aires is much less ‘precious’ about its history. The grounds have an eerie, desolate, unkempt feeling about them. In one section, there are a series of signs highlighting people whose remains/story/ were never recovered. Many things were NOT behind protective glass; we were able to walk through the spaces, including those that held the prisoners, and the areas in which they were tortured. We visited on a particularly hot day, so the attic spaces where prisoners were kept were at least 120 degrees for us- adding a tangible element of discomfort to an already difficult, but important visit.

Regarding the photos: A few have been translated to English, for better understanding. Taking photographs of the actual areas of captivity and torture felt.... wrong.